Adventures and Misadventures of a Jolly Beggar (continued)
On 7th April starts by trains to Valparaiso—9th April Valparaiso to San Felipe by train. 13th April by rail to Los Andes, "a nice village snugly nestled and choked with vines at the foot of the Andes."
Called on parish priest, a Spaniard "overflowing with friendship and hospitality." A fellow in San Felipe asked for US$60 for mules and guide to cross Andes. "No go! as had also to put by own saddle." Another guy asked US$30 but "cura" fought him down to US$25. "Mends his own breeches!"—a story. Frenchman provided foodstuffs.
On Tuesday, 14th April 1874, at 2:30 p.m. "I was on the mule's back in a jiffy—my habit tucked up and my mantle flowing, like a young dragoon's on to the beast's tail." At 7:30 got to Lloras (Tears) after five hours in saddle—put up for night. Guide: Zenon Fernandez ("I called him Fernando.") "I slept about two hours in fits and starts."
April 15th: We were off at 7:00. That night at Juncal (wrote parody on To Ladies' Eyes.) Next house 25 miles away—traveled till 2 o'clock "When starved and tired and half dead, I dropped rather than alighted from the back of my mule at Juncal. Here stayed all night as Cordillera has to be crossed at early morn to avoid the winds which sweep over them in the daytime and afternoon."
April 16th: "On Thursday, April 16th, I made the most wonderful and terrible journey in my life. A clumsy path and no animal but a mule or a goat intent upon suicide would attempt it." Began crossing at 4 o'clock in the morning. Lake 7,000 feet above sea level. "Began to ascend the height at half past seven and climbed on till the earth itself seemed to vanish from beneath us… We reached at length to the top which was about 30 feet square and no more. Here we stood 12,400 feet above the level of the sea." Then started to descend. When we got into the level, encamped, stream side, breakfast… No house for 50 miles except a shed at a place called Puente del Inca.
April 17th, Friday: Through desert finds what thirst is… "I here know what thirst was in earnest. I'd have given all the wine and the mule besides for a glass of water." Three hours we came to an oasis called Uspallata at half past four and then put up for the night.
April 18th, Saturday: "I find upon enquiry that there are 30 leagues, or about 80 English miles, between me and Mendoza; and I must get there tomorrow in time to say Mass. Two thirds of the way is a desert and the other third a mountain gorge."
Set off at 6:00. Reached deserted mine about 10:00. Breakfast. Half past one descended another height and had now left the last cordillera. At 4:00 we reached the last halting place, exactly 40 miles from Mendoza. Dined, rested and I said my office and then at 6:00, half an hour after sunset, started to travel all night and get into Mendoza in the morning… About 10 o'clock "made the best of a bad bargain"… Got off my mule. Fernando made me a bed. Slept a couple of hours. It was after twelve when I awoke "and now on Sunday morning, April 19th, I reached San Francisco Church as tired and cold and hungry and thirsty and as near death by complete exhaustion as ever I was in my life. I had been 22 hours in the saddle—a day and a night with hardly any rest. I said Mass immediately and had to catch the altar in order to genuflect. I got a cup of coffee after Mass, went to bed and arose a little refreshed about 12 o'clock noon. Thus have I come to an end of the five most laborious and adventurous days I ever passed in my life."
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